For decades we’ve been told that full-fat is bad news. We swapped whole milk for skimmed, butter for spreads, and cheese became something to eat “in moderation” to reduce our saturated fat intake.
Eating too much saturated fat (more than 30g per day for men and 20g for women) changes how your liver handles low-density lipoprotein (LDL, or “bad” cholesterol), causing it to build up in your blood. Over time, this can increase your risk of a heart attack, stroke or coronary heart disease.
But recently, researchers are finding that you cannot judge a food simply by how much saturated fat it contains. A recent study published in The Journal of Nutrition found that eating three servings of full-fat dairy a day did not adversely affect body weight, body composition, energy metabolism or blood lipid (fat) levels.
What matters is the whole food and what that fat comes packaged with, says Rob Hobson, registered nutritionist and author of The Low Appetite Cookbook.
Cheese and yogurt, for example, contain fat alongside protein, calcium and other nutrients, while fermentation may affect how its nutrients are digested and absorbed. Scientists sometimes refer to this as the food matrix: the idea that nutrients can behave differently depending on the physical structure of the food they are contained in.
So which full-fat foods can form part of a healthy diet – and which are better kept as occasional treats?
The Full-Fat Foods That Are Actually Good For You
These full-fat foods come with nutrients that may change how their saturated fat affects the body.
Cheese
With 5-6g of saturated fat in a standard 30g serving, cheese has traditionally been viewed as something to eat sparingly.
Yet research suggests that cheese may have a different effect on blood cholesterol than its saturated fat content alone would imply.
The saturated fat content is “within a structure containing protein, calcium and other components, which seems to influence the way the body digests and metabolises it,” Hobson explains. One possible explanation is the calcium in dairy may bind with some fatty acids in the gut, forming compounds that are less readily absorbed.
“If someone has high cholesterol, I’d still be mindful of how much they’re eating,” Hobson warns. “But there’s certainly no reason most people need to avoid cheese simply because it contains saturated fat.” He recommends enjoying a portion of around 30g.
Yogurt
A typical 150g serving of full-fat yogurt contains roughly 5g of saturated fat, but appears to have a relatively neutral effect on blood cholesterol, while emerging research suggests it may also have a beneficial effect on diabetes risk.
As with cheese, that fat comes packaged alongside protein, calcium, iodine and B vitamins, Hobson says. Additionally, the fermentation process of yogurt alters how the lipids and proteins are packaged, potentially changing how the body absorbs them.
At the same time, fermentation introduces live bacterial cultures that can interact with the gut microbiome and may influence the production of short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs) like butyrate. “These compounds are involved in processes including glucose and cholesterol metabolism – so this may help explain why fermented dairy foods can have different effects on health than we might predict from their saturated fat content alone,” Hobson explains.
Fermented yogurt containing live cultures can also provide beneficial bacteria for gut health, although the effects vary between products.
Hobson recommends a 150g serving of full plain yogurt as “the best everyday choice – I’d load it up with plenty of healthy toppings like fresh and dried fruit, nuts and seeds”.
Whole milk
From whole and semi-skimmed to oat and almond, there are endless varieties of milk available on supermarket shelves. While whole milk is often considered the unhealthiest of the lot, recent research suggests that this may not be true.
A 200ml serving contains just under 5g of saturated fat, but studies have shown that whole milk does not necessarily raise LDL cholesterol any more than skimmed milk.
One possible explanation is that droplets of fat in milk are surrounded by a complex membrane known as the milk fat globule membrane (MFGM). This membrane changes how enzymes in the small intestine digest milk fat, while components within it may also impact how the body absorbs and metabolises cholesterol.
Additionally, “whole, semi-skimmed and skimmed milk are pretty similar when it comes to protein, calcium, iodine and vitamin B12,” Hobson says.
Kefir
Fuelled by the growing popularity of gut health, kefir has become popular in recent years. It is “basically fermented milk, made using a mixture of bacteria and yeasts”, Hobson explains.
“Nutritionally, you’re still getting nutrients like protein and calcium, alongside the live microorganisms involved in fermentation.”
A 240ml serving contains around 4.5 to 5g of saturated fat. Like yogurt, fermentation may affect how its fats and proteins are digested, while some research suggests the live bacteria in kefir can bind to cholesterol in the gut, potentially reducing how much is absorbed. But the evidence is still limited.
Hobson recommends opting for a plain, unsweetened variety.
The Full-Fat Foods to Avoid
These full-fat foods are best enjoyed in smaller amounts, particularly if you’re watching your saturated fat intake.
Butter
“This is where the dairy fat story gets really interesting,” Hobson says. “Butter comes from milk, yet it doesn’t seem to behave in the same way as milk or cheese.”
A single tablespoon of butter contains around 7.3g of saturated fat – and is almost 100 per cent fat.
“Because it isn’t packaged with a substantial amount of protein and other nutrients, eating it contributes a dense load of saturated fat which slows the liver’s ability to clear LDL cholesterol,” explains Ian Givens, a professor of food chain nutrition at University of Reading.
Additionally, studies suggest churning milk to make butter removes much of the natural membrane surrounding its fat globules. This leaves a much more concentrated source of dairy fat, meaning it is easier to consume large amounts of saturated fat in a small quantity.
That doesn’t mean you can never eat butter. “I’d just think of it as something you use for flavour rather than your main everyday fat,” Hobson says. “For most cooking and dressings, I’d generally go for olive oil instead.”
Cream
Again, cream proves that not all full-fat dairy products impact cholesterol the same way, Hobson says. Cream is produced by mechanically separating fresh whole milk to isolate the natural milk fat, “meaning you get a lot of saturated fat without much of the protein and calcium you get from other dairy foods”.
The fat content varies heavily by type: single cream sits at around 18 per cent fat, while double cream reaches roughly 48 per cent. Depending on the variety, a single tablespoon contains anywhere from 3.5g to 5g of saturated fat.
Crucially, while cream retains the same protective milk fat globule membrane found in fresh milk, it is a much more concentrated source of fat and saturated fat. “So, while the dairy matrix influences how we respond to saturated fat, it doesn’t mean the saturated fat in cream can simply be discounted,” Hobson explains.
“I’m not saying to never eat cream,” he clarifies. “A bit of cream on a pudding or in a sauce isn’t going to undo an otherwise healthy diet. I’d just see it as something to use in smaller amounts rather than an everyday staple.”
Coconut milk
Many consider coconut milk a health food, but its plant-based status doesn’t make it low in saturated fat.
It is made by blending the thick, oily flesh of mature coconuts with water, meaning full-fat varieties can contain more than 13g of saturated fat per 100ml. Additionally, it lacks the complex calcium and protein structure present in dairy milk, meaning there is nothing to inhibit or alter how the digestive system processes this fat.
If you regularly use it for cooking, Hobson recommends switching to a reduced-fat version, which may contain substantially less saturated fat.
Still, “this doesn’t mean you need to worry about having a Thai curry made with full-fat coconut milk,” Hobson clarifies. “It’s much more about how often you’re eating it and what the rest of your diet looks like.”
He advises thinking of full-fat coconut milk as a “lovely cooking ingredient” rather than something to eat regularly for its health benefits.
Red meat
Fatty cuts like rib-eye steak, pork belly and duck legs can contain lots of saturated fat, so eating them frequently can contribute significantly to your overall intake – potentially raising cholesterol levels over time. Because they have a very different food matrix to dairy foods and don’t contain components like the milk fat globule membrane, their fat isn’t digested in the same way, Hobson explains.
Processed meat such as bacon, sausages and salami is a separate concern. These foods are often high in saturated fat and salt, while regular consumption is associated with an increased risk of colorectal cancer.
However, “lean red meat gives you protein, iron, zinc and vitamin B12, so it can absolutely fit into a healthy diet,” Hobson says. The current UK guidance is to eat an average of 70g per day or less.
This article was originally seen on The Telegraph.
