Between Heaven and Earth: The Beliefnet Trip to Bhutan

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Day 7: Jakar

Kinga warns us that the hike up to Kunzandrak Monastery is going to be difficult. It takes about two and a half hours to reach the site, which houses many of Pema Lingpa's sacred relics. Though strenuous, the hike is a wonderful journey in itself. We pass through small village settlements and are invited to join a local family for lunch. We also help a local woman and her young son collect firewood on the slopes of the mountain. As we huff and puff along in short little spurts of climbing, our ultrapatient guides wait for us to make it to the top. When we reach the monastery, we filled our water bottles with holy water running from a rock above the buildings.

The final stop for the day is Membartso Fire Lake, where Pema Lingpa discovered several of Guru Rinpoche's hidden treasures. Larry conducts a meditation session at the lake, which is surrounded by prayer flags and small clay offerings left behind by local worshippers. Kinga brings small candles, which we light and place in the lake. It's said that if your candle does not sink, you are living a spiritually enriched life.

Day 8: Punakha

It's a long day of driving as we re-trace our steps back to the Western part of the country. Larry and Kinga fill the time by sharing exciting legends of Bhutan.

Day 9: Thimphu

This morning Larry leads us to a rarely visited site in Punakha, the stupa of Nyizer Gang. It's a lovely 40-minute walk to the beautiful dome-shaped shrine, dedicated to Vajrakilaya and other tantric deities.

We make an unexpected stop at a local house. Larry introduces us to the parents of Yeshi, one of the monks that Larry befriended during his stay in Nepal. We join them for tea, popped rice, cookies and great conversation.

Back in Thimphu, there's enough time to visit the handicraft store for last-minute souvenirs.

Day 10: Paro

At the Thimphu zoo, we see takin-a strange-looking ox-like animal. After a visit to the Textile Museum and some shopping, we have lunch and head for the spectacular cliffside monastery Taksang.

Also known as Tiger's Nest, Taksang is one of the most venerated pilgrimage sites of the Himalayan world. The hike up to Taksang takes about 2 hours. As we reach the teahouse, we catch our first glimpse of the monastery.

No Western visitors are allowed inside Taksang, so Larry prepares what is known as a "Sadhana of Mahamudra." The group gathers on a small ledge as Larry recites an ancient tantric practice revealed to his teacher Trungpa Rinpoche here at Taksang many years ago. Our time here is a highlight of our stay in Bhutan.

Day 11

We bid farewell to Kinga with a deep appreciation for the traditional and spiritual values that thrive in the lives and hearts of Bhutan's people.