Between Heaven and Earth: The Beliefnet Trip to Bhutan

In September 2003, Beliefnet travelers journeyed to the "Last Living Buddhist Kingdom," Bhutan. Hiking through the spectacular Himalayas, learning the legends of Buddhist holy men, and meeting the locals, trip participants explored the kind of spiritually-infused culture that's largely lost to the Western world. Here's what we did.

Day 1: Paro

After a 20-hour journey to Bangkok, followed by a just a few hours of restless sleep, we are finally en route to Bhutan, nestled in the breathtaking Himalayan mountain range.

Landing in the one-strip Paro airport, we exit the small airplane and wave goodbye to the pilot. We've just set foot on one of the most remote and isolated places in the world--a place where, for centuries, the Buddha's timeless teachings of wisdom and compassion have infused every aspect of life.

Our local guide, Kinga Dechen, greets us dressed in the colorful Bhutanese "gho," the compulsory robe for all the country's men. He soon becomes our trusted friend and a beloved teacher.

We head for the hotel, made up of small, traditionally-decorated cottages on the slopes of the Paro Valley. The views are spectacular!

After a quick buffet lunch, we set out for Ta Dzong ("lookout fortress"), now the National Museum. There we see a wonderful collection of old thangkas (wall hangings which illustrate stories of the Buddha and various Buddhist deities). Our Beliefnet scholar, Larry Mermelstein, explains the hangings, conjuring up images of dancing dakinis and awakened beings.

Day 2: Paro

We're granted special permission to visit the inside of Dungtse Lhakhang, the 3-story temple of Thangtong Gyalpo, before we head off to visit our first "dzong", the majestic white fortresses which house the administrative offices of each local district. Most dzongs in Bhutan are built on hilltops and are architectural symbols of strength and unity. Paro Dzong is known as the fortress built on a heap of jewels.

We have lunch in a tiny restaurant called Sonam Trophel, where Mrs. Sonam cooked up incredible ginger potatoes and chicken wings. It was to become our favorite eatery in Bhutan (just second to the "pizza palace" in Bumthang!)

Larry has a wonderful surprise for us this afternoon: a dharma talk by a very young lama named Yangsi Khyentse, the reincarnation of His Holiness Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche. His older brother translates for us. We're allowed to view the amazing, rarely seen murals of the "eight logos" mandalas, and end the day with the lama's family at a sumptuous dinner.

Day 3: Thimphu

On the spectacular drive to Thimphu (Kinga warns us not to use up all our film: "wait until we cross the mountains and travel to the East!"), we stop at Tachok Gompa. It was built by the famous Thangtong Gyalpo, a famous Tibetan saint who, Larry explains, discovered the art and design of iron chains used to build suspension bridges.

We reach Thimphu. Bhutan's capital has one main road, no traffic lights, and little traffic. We explore book stores, antique shops, fabric shops and our favorite, a Swiss bakery which sells traditional European pastries.

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